Positively New York Place with an Italian contact
Aug. 14, 2013, 9:24 p.m. ET
Elizabeth Falkner’s Corvo Bianco adds a bit of sophistication to a block known for its dinosaur cookies. The new “Italian Coastal Restaurant” opened opposite the American Museum of Natural History last month.
The bar on the first floor is clean and casual, with doors that open onto the street. The space has Italian influences, like an arched trompe l’oeil walkway in the background. But it’s a decidedly New York place with a soundtrack of classic rock and Columbus Avenue.
Cocktails like the Manhattan and the French 75 share the menu with three types of Negroni and the Pera Bisonte, made from bison grass vodka and pama, a pomegranate liqueur. In addition to the classic gin and vodka versions, there is a smoky Negroni made from rum and tequila as well as the Campari and the sweet vermouth. The ginger cake with bourbon, jumbled ginger, and an absinthe float was also a lovely summer drink (all $ 13-15).
Heirloom tomatoes should be on all menus this month. Corvo Bianco serves them avocado, corn nuts, and scamorza cheese ($ 8). The creamy ricotta and fettunta of broccolini bruschetta – a garlic bread – made for a hefty bite ($ 8), and the aged Parmigiano Reggiano and crispy gnocco fritto ($ 10) were another great snack.
The peach dessert was a fresh end – grilled peaches, brown butter and almond cake with anise hyssop, and salted corn gelato ($ 9).